To the sound of ancient traditions

At the end of summer, the Val d’Ultimo – as well as other valleys in South Tyrol – is famous for the traditional desmontegade, the festivities for the return of cattle from the mountain pastures (transhumance). The stars of the show are the cows dressed up with sumptuous crowns and big cowbells. The fabrication of the bells is an ancient tradition.

“Do kimmt sie, di Lora! Here comes the Lora!”, exclaims a child in typical leather pants, seeing his favourite cow arrive after three months of vacation in the Alpen pastures. With brio, a procession of elaborately adorned cows is descending the dirt road and the deep sound of cowbells covers the resounding applause of spectators and the cheerful notes of the accordions. To set the pace is the explosive cracking of the Goaßl, a long typical leather whip, ever-present for the popular migration.

It’s past noon and the scent of succulent canederle dumplings as well as spiced Krapfen doughnuts with poppy seeds permeates the air. A multitude of men and women – some with the typical blue aprons and the others with elegantly braided hair – are lined up behind the fence to admire the parade of cows led by their cowherds. Their gaze reveals a mixture of excitement and melancholy for the end of the summer season. The animals, as tradition dictates, are festooned with decorative headdresses and spectacular plant wreaths of fir, juniper, rhododendron, thistles and other alpine flowers. On their necks, precious shiny bells sparkle under the sun, with embroidered collars or with a lively coloured wool profile.

This spectacular folkloric event has been recurring every year for centuries, so much so that in 2019 it was recognized as an intangible cultural heritage of humanity. In Val d’Ultimo – one of the most pristine valleys in the Merano area – this ancient peasant custom is proudly safeguarded, together with other skilled craftsmanship.