Discovering unique landscapes and genuine souls

We all need a daily dose of wonder and kindness, precious qualities that make the world a better place. During the hike to the Wieser Werfer biotope with mountaineer Simon Gietl, between the alpine pastures and three-thousand-metre mountains of the Aurina Valley, there was plenty of both – it was one of those days that are simply good for the heart.

“Hoi, i bin dr Simon.” Hi there, I’m Simon. These initial words, spoken in the South Tyrolean dialect by Gietl, carry a sincerity uncommon for a mountaineering icon featured in numerous newspapers. He warmly greets each participant of the hike, not as a distinguished guest, but as one of us. In mere moments, his genuine laughter spreads through the entire group. If the promising September sky and bright sun hinted at a great day in the mountains, now the atmosphere guarantees an unforgettable experience.

Walking and chatting

The starting point of the circular tour is the locality of Casere, in the municipality of Predoi, the northernmost of the country. It is a special place: the last houses of the Aurina Valley are dominated by the Vetta Italia peak, at the very top of the peninsula, on the border with Austria.
The path immediately enters the woods; the golden rays of sun filter through the spruce and larch trees, convincing us to take off our jackets without hesitation. The gentle slope of the itinerary allows for easy conversation and to pose the questions that invariably arise when walking alongside a character like Simon Gietl. With disarming modesty, he begins to tell of his adventures among the most scenic peaks of the Alps – regularly interspersed with some hilarious anecdote. The tone is not that of a show-off, but the joking air of an old schoolmate updating us on what he has been doing over the years. “Once, with a good friend, we climbed the northern Ortles, the Cima Piccola di Lavaredo and the northern Austrian Grossglockner in succession, moving from one mountain to another by bicycle – all in less than 48 hours. I learned a lot about physical limitations there: it’s crazy how much lack of sleep can impact your energy and mental health.

The second sleepless night was very hard: at a certain point, while I was pedalling, I even took off my glasses so that the crisp air would keep me awake,” he recalls. Laughingly, he adds: “You should know that the day before departure I had celebrated my wedding until quite late, but luckily my friend was among the guests, so we had the same disadvantages.” In the wake of this challenge, after a well-deserved break of a few years (Simon smiles, revealing that for a while he had had enough of bikes), the ambitious North 6 project was born. It consists of climbing the six major north faces of the Alps in three weeks and “with honest means”, i.e. only on foot, by bicycle, by paragliding or on skis. “It is essential to be strict arbiters of yourself and to set limits. A project acquires that prohibitive charm only when you start thinking: but it’s impossible!”

To the Wieser Werfer biotope

As the trees start to thin out, revealing the expanse of Malga Stark’s alpine pastures, veal calves graze on some of the fields, while others display the classic light-dark stripes of mowing. Here, the predominant scent is the balsamic fragrance of rhododendron, blooming among blueberry bushes laden with tempting ripe fruits. Our fingers turn purple as we pluck the berries, which delight the palate with a sweetly fresh flavour and a pleasant tart finish. Amid these landscapes and the lively conversation with Simon, we reach the Wieser Werfer biotope, with its winding loops naturally carved by the Rauchkofelbach stream, flowing from the pyramidal and stony Monte Fumo. The water flows serenely, its clarity almost unbelievable, meandering through the bends with such precision that one might think it was meticulously planned. However, once again, nature confirms its superiority over humans.

After rejuvenating our feet with an impromptu Kneipp therapy in the spontaneously formed crystalline pool just beyond the protected area, we resume our journey. The smooth dirt path allows occasional glances away from the trail towards the magnificent Picco dei Tre Signori ahead: adorned with a layer of snow, it proudly signifies that Vedrette di Ries-Aurina is the South Tyrolean natural park with the most glaciers.
Blub, blub… Suddenly, a soft gurgling catches our attention, and as we seek its source, we’re struck by an idyllic scene reminiscent of a computer background: a quaint wooden cabin with a shingled roof, nestled amid lush green grass and towering peaks. In front of it lies a small pond, its surface adorned with a continuous swirl of bubbles, revealing the source of the sound – a truly remarkable spectacle.

Once we reach the Tauern hut, it’s time for a well-deserved refreshment break! From nettle or pressed dumplings – locally called Pressa – to homemade grey cheese and the classic apple strudel: there is no shortage of tasty choices. A must try: water with syrup made from southern wormwood, a medicinal herb with a typical cola flavour.

Amid nature and innate authenticity

We proceed towards the valley along a broad zigzag paved route, historically used for smuggling, across the Tauern Pass. The ambiance is relaxed, with Simon interweaving anecdotes about himself with humorous quips, all while displaying genuine interest in the lives of his fellow hikers. “Even in assembling a team for an expedition, I prioritise camaraderie over expertise. I wouldn’t venture into the mountains with anyone I couldn’t share a beer with afterwards – time is too precious to be spent on activities that lack genuine enjoyment. And at home, I cherish moments with my family: rather than recounting adventures, I simply enjoy being a husband and father.”

Before concluding our journey and returning to the Casere car park, we pause to admire the captivating Holy Spirit church, renowned as a pilgrimage site. Whether it’s the area’s famed energetic qualities stemming from abundant water and rock crystal, the tranquil presence of local cows of the Pinzgauer breed grazing nearby, the majestic peaks towering against a cloudless sky, or simply the cheerful company… gratitude fills the heart.

Here, Simon Gietl exudes a sense of profound satisfaction, reflecting the joy of following his passions daily. “It’s a blessing I wish upon everyone, whether it’s scaling peaks or pursuing other trades like carpentry or farming,” he shares earnestly. Recounting a poignant moment, he adds, “Once, my son asked me: why do you go to the mountains? Unable to answer, I took him along. At the summit, we ate a sandwich and breathed in the fresh air. Nothing special. Yet, upon returning home, he eagerly asked: Dad, when can we go again? That’s when I realised, he found his answer.” These words, brimming with authenticity – particularly resonate with mountain enthusiasts, leaving us in awe of the surrounding magnificence and enjoying a profound sense of unity amid high altitudes.
Yes, humanity and beauty truly do make the world a better place.

Simon Gietl

Born in 1984, just shy of forty, Simon Gietl maintains the innocent look of a young boy, his unruly hair hastily braided to the left. Although hailing from the mountain village of Vila di Sopra in the Aurina Valley, his foray into the vertical realm commenced at 18, spurred by a chance encounter with a climber while hitchhiking. Today he is a mountain guide and a prominent figure in Italian mountaineering, renowned for his love for challenging routes approached with a clean style and solo ascents. Among his most important recent projects are complete traverses of four Dolomite groups chronicled in “Winter Solo” and the establishment of the “Identität” route on the Cima di Mezzo of the Croda dei Toni, in the Sesto Dolomites.